Farm to bottle at a Wellington brewery

Soul Squared takes CSA concept from the farmhouse to the brewhouse

Photo courtesy of Soul Squared Brewing Co.

By Steve Graham

It’s not unusual to meet the brewer at a craft brewery. You are less likely to meet the farmer who might grow the winter squash that goes into your beer.

When Lindsay Zanca-Eichlin picked up some Acorn Squash Amber Ale bombers this month at Soul Squared Brewing Company, she got to meet both brewer and farmer. Zanca-Eichlin is part of the Soul Squared CSA beer club.

Like other farms around the state, the Gray Family Farm has a community-supported agriculture (CSA) program, but instead of funding seeds and tractor maintenance, it pays for kettles and barley for the in-house brewery, Soul Squared.

CSA members go to the farm or a boutique Fort Collins craft beer store to pick up their monthly share of beer — and even offer suggestions about future selections.

“Being part of the CSA makes getting and enjoying their beer a much better experience than a regular brewery,” Zanca-Eichlin said. “Like a vegetable CSA, you really get to know the person behind the product, and even get input into future projects. … Their operation is as ‘farm to table’ as it gets.”

In 2015, Mary and Aaron Gray opened the brewery on their farm north of Fort Collins. Aaron grew up with Jay Shambo, who has won prestigious awards for his homebrews. They had long enjoyed collaborating on beer, and Aaron wanted to add some brewing to his farm operation.

“You can’t have beer without agriculture,” he said. “You can have agriculture without beer, but why bother?”

Shambo and Aaron Gray converted a barn into a brewery and got to work. Shambo is the head brewer, and Aaron and Mary Gray work with the other owners on all other aspects of the business.

Like most breweries, they needed a lot of startup capital for equipment. Mary Gray said they turned to the CSA idea shortly after opening, starting with 11 members who were all friends and neighbors. 

In less than three years, Soul Squared has expanded to a 10-barrel brew system and 54 CSA members.

“I love the personal touch of heading out to the farm and sharing beers with other CSA members, talking about beer with the warming aroma of malts in the fresh air of the farm,” said CSA member Diana Moseman.

Mary handles distribution, marketing and several other jobs for the brewery. She also manages the family farm and grows a variety of crops, including beets and rhubarb that have gone into Soul Squared beers. 

“We are dedicated to the craft of keeping things local and including the agricultural experience of beer,” she said.

Soul Squared has several seasonal and flagship beers available in local bars and stores, including a Belgian blonde and an extra pale ale. It also offers a limited release of unique, small-batch bombers to CSA members each month. 

Photo courtesy of Soul Squared Brewing Co.

Members pay $500 every six months for a full share, or 12 bombers per month. Partial shares also are available. Some companies or groups split their shares. 

Sarnen Steinbarth, the founder and CEO of turbotenant.com, has a company share and may need a second share to resolve workplace disputes.

“As a local startup ourselves it's been great to be part of the CSA and support local (beer),” Steinbarth said. “From the employee tour at the Soul Squared farm to the delicious beer that we fight over monthly, Soul Squared exudes a passion and quality that goes beyond the bottle." 

The brewery is looking to expand its CSA pickups outside the Fort Collins area, and plans to open a taproom in Wellington in early 2018. Shares for the next six months are available now. Click here for more information.